Pre-Build: Construction Steps
It is important that certain pre- construction materials be acquired prior to
beginning construction. Someone local to the construction project site should
organize and order certain items. The following is what is required to begin
construction of a Qty (1) Lazarian World Home. The roof trusses can be delivered
or fabricated on site. If the truss’s are to be fabricated on site using truss jigs,
then required quantities of 2X4’s (top and bottom cord),2X3’s (interior webbing)
and 3/8″ Struct I or CDX plywood for gussets need to be available to immediately
begin fabrication of the roof truss’s. Also, 2,500′ (lineal feet) of #3 rebar in
minimum 12′ lengths (to be cut to lengths per plans), plus 750 sq ft of 6 x 6 x 10 x
10 wire mesh should be delivered to the site. Qty (5) – 50 lb bags of ready mix
concrete should be delivered to the site to be used to fill the 4″- 6″ of concrete in a
minimum of two holes per ICF foam block for the walls as described below. This
cement stabilizes/sets the foam blocks to the slab prior to stacking. Rough
plumbing, electrical wire, outlet boxes and service gear must be delivered to the
site. Gas and oil for the construction equipment should be purchased and the
machines prepared for use. A ready mix concrete truck (4 yards), including a
concrete pump, should be scheduled to arrive at noon of the second primary
working day (after slabs are poured).
Step 1: LAYING THE FOUNDATION
Prior to starting construction (before a team arrives), a concrete foundation must
be poured with the required rough-in ground plumbing put in place. A concrete
slab/footing will be poured per house plans with #3 rebar 3′ length embedded 12″
into exterior footings of slab at 16″ on center (OC). Verify that the slab is square,
flat, and level. Grind or chip where necessary.
IMPORTANT: Layout of rebar to be 16″ on center and to be held in 4″ from
outside edge of slab, including corners. As the ICF foam blocks are stacked, rough
plumbing and electric wiring is installed simultaneously. There should be NO
extra time allotted for this work.
The home MUST be laid out square. Run a diagonal tape measurement to the
slab corners to verify the slab is square. These 2 diagonal measurements must be
equal to each other for the slab to be square. In order to “square up” the building
to be built on an “out of square” slab – to achieve the required overall equal
dimensions, it may be necessary to hang part of the foam blocks over the edge of
ALTERNATE FOUNDATION SYSTEM USING LAZARIAN ICF FOAM BLOCKS
AS FORMS: The most efficient way to install footings is to utilize Lazarian ICF
foam blocks as forms. The 12″ W X 24″ D footings shown on the Concrete
Foundation Details are designed for maximum strength when Lazarian buildings
are constructed on POOREST/MOST EXPANSIVE SOIL CONDITIONS. Because
the Lazarian buildings are light weight and the reinforced concrete footings,
concrete columns at 16″ on center, mid span (4′ high) and top plate reinforced
concrete bond beams (8′ plate line) are interlocked to create a true reinforced
concrete post and beam building, an alternative foundation system may be used..
Where there is decomposed granite or compacted sand building pads, a 12″ W X
12″ D footing using the Lazarian ICF foam lintel block as a form will be more than
adequate. To install a foundation with Lazarian blocks as forms, simply set string
lines to the outside perimeter of the desired building dimensions to the elevation
of the finish floor (slab). Then dig the footings. Next, Square up the string lines by
checking that the diagonal lengths of the corners of the foundation/slab are the
same length. Using Lazarian lintel blocks, cut off one wall/side of the blocks. The
remaining outside wall and base of the Lazarian lintel block will serve as a form
board and allow for a monolithic pour. Then set the Lazarian blocks to the string
line by using #3 rebar set vertically in the bottom of the footing and using a small
amount of stiff cement to stabilize the Lazarian foam block to the rebar in the
desired position. When the Lazarian blocks are securely in place, the outside wall
of the foam block serves a a form board when pouring the slab. When soil
conditions are expansive or less than desirable, increase the footing size to 12″ X
24″ D using a standard Lazarian block as the first course in the foundation
system with the Lazarian lintel installed as the top course or form board in the
manner described above. In all foundation systems using conventional wood
forms or Lazarian blocks as forms, install Qty (2) # 3 rebar continuous
horizontally in the foundations and pour concrete in ALL cavities and the slab
Step 2: Building Foam Block Walls
Once the foundation/slab is poured and can be walked on, EXTERIOR WALL
construction can begin. Cut #3 steel rebar (enough for the first ICF blocks to
stack 4′ high), into 5′ lengths, lap 12″ and tie to existing #3 vertical rebar
embedded in slab. This rebar should extend above the first pour/1/2 wall height
of 4 blocks (4′ high) 12″ in order to tie on rebar for the second step to take it to 8′
high. Tie rebar with 3/16″ wide, medium duty plastic zip ties. Make sure there are
rebar and concrete posts/columns at ends of all walls, that there are posts/
columns at all inside and outside corners and for both sides of all rough openings
for all doors and windows. Always stack ICF blocks running bond style, meaning
staggered on top of each other. Stagger joints a minimum of one hole (8″) when
building walls and never have ICF block seams lined up vertically to each other.
Place the 1st course of the ICF foam blocks on the entire exterior perimeter of
slab per the architect drawings. Cut off rebar that has been installed in slab at
door openings/ locations flush with the concrete slab (use grinder if necessary).
Pour relatively stiff (high slump) concrete 4″- 6″ high in ICF foam block cavities
where there is vertical rebar. This concrete will hold the 1st course of the foam
blocks in place to allow for stacking the walls.
NEXT: Snap chalk lines for all interior walls. For the INTERIOR WALLS,
place one course of the ICF foam blocks on center of the layout lines and mark
concrete (with spray paint, chalk, or marker) 16″ OC to the center of the foam
block holes. Then remove blocks and drill with 5/8″ masonry bit holes 6″ to 8″
deep at marks. Prior to installing rebar, use air compressor to blow the holes
clean and free of all debris. Also, drill holes and add rebar for all inside and
outside corner or end posts/columns and on each side of door and window rough
openings. Use epoxy and install #3 rebar 3′ long into slab 6-8″ deep into each
Step 3: PREPARING FOR CONCRETE POUR IN WALLS
Reinstall the 1st course of the foam ICF blocks for the Interior Walls and pour
stiff concrete 4″-6″ high – minimum two holes per block, PLUS all inside and
outside corner or end posts/columns at all interior walls. Once the epoxy has set,
then pour 4-6″ of stiff pre-mix concrete into the holes with the rebar for the
interior walls. After the cement has set up, add the 4′ rebar to the rebar that was
just installed – exactly as was done previously for the Exterior Walls..
IMPORTANT: RE-VERIFY all wall layout/dimensions and check for wall
squareness prior to stacking block after the 4″- 6″ concrete in the first course of
the ICF foam block has set up.
Fabricate 2″ X 6″ wood box frames with plywood gussets 12″ solid from the top
for all door and window rough openings (overall dimension is 1/4″ over the stated
rough opening sizes). Use 3″ concrete/masonry nails to nail/secure the door
frames to the slab. Window box frames can be nailed through their base to the
concrete lintels at 4′ high (after the first concrete pour to 4′) or use 3 1/2″ drywall
screws to connect to the foam blocks.
Reminder: Install Qty (1) #3 rebar (connect with plastic zip ties) vertical 16″ OC
and lap rebar 12″ to each existing vertical rebar in slab for all Exterior and
Interior Walls. Use Qty (1) #3 rebar horizontal in all lintels/headers at 4′ and 8′
high plate line .
NOTE: ALL rebar must be lapped minimum 12″ vertical and horizontal.
Place ICF foam blocks for all exterior and interior walls on the base course of
existing blocks and stack 4′ high using beam/lintel blocks for the top block
course. ( see foam block stacking drawings)
Cut the foam blocks (with electric wire or Sawzall) as required and stack foam
blocks snug to the 2″ X 6″ wood frames at the door and window rough openings.
NOTE: To tighten wire in electric wire (wand), compress ends of wand handle,
and then add wire by twisting each end in eyehook. Install wire and then release
tension of the metal wand ends and the wire will be tight.
Install foam Hole Plugs in the top of ALL ICF foam block lintel/header openings
at 4′ and 8′ where there is NO vertical rebar.
At ALL window and door openings, block out ALL beam/lintel vertical holes at
the 8′ plate line with foam Hole Plugs.
Cut a hole (with the hole saw) in the shape and size of the beam/ lintel at the 4′
and 8′ beam/lintel line where walls intersect to provide a CONTINUOUS
concrete and rebar (90 degree bends) CHANNEL BEAM/LINTEL to tie the walls
together in the lintels at ALL corners and “T” intersections.
Install 90 degree #3 rebar bends (right angles) in beams/lintels 2′ long each end
(4′ total length) at ALL inside/outside corners and “T” intersections to TIE/LOCK
ALL walls together at 4′ and 8′ high.
Install rough electric and plumbing using the horizontal lintel cavities at 4′ and 8′
high as a chase and use open ICF foam vertical block holes (vertical holes which
will not have rebar/concrete) as chases.
THERE ARE TWO CONCRETE POURS TO 8′ WALL HEIGHT: When you pour
concrete into all open ICF foam block holes, FIRST fill the “U” shaped channels
in the beams/lintels with concrete to 4′ high walls. Make sure that you pour
concrete in posts/columns next to BOTH sides of all doors and windows AND all
inside/outside corners and end posts/ columns. NEXT, repeat the same steps as
above and pour walls using the “U” shaped lintels/headers as concrete pour
channels to complete the walls at 8′ high.
Step 4: TIGHTENING WALLS
Before pouring concrete, at all Wall Intersections and Wall Corners, use two-part
Epoxy to secure ICF foam block walls to each other at the beam/lintel only (4′
and 8′ high beams/lintels). Also, epoxy beam/Lintel End Pieces into the ICF foam
block. This will strengthen the connections, keep the walls from moving, and
avoid blowouts of the Lintel End Pieces.
If wall “T” intersections and/ or wall corners seem loose, suck them in to each
other by using metal rebar tie wire connected to vertical rebar, 18″-24″ inside the
wall at the beam/lintel and run to outside the wall. Use a wood block to prevent
the wire from cutting into the foam block from the outside as you twist the tie
wire to force the walls to lock together.
Step 5: POURING CONCRETE
The Lazarian World Home requires approximately 7-8 cubic yards of concrete for
all the walls to 8′ high. Order 4 cubic yards for the first pour to 4′ high. Pour
concrete (MUST — USE CONCRETE PUMP TO CONTROL FLOW VOLUME OF
CONCRETE). Fabricate shields by cutting a piece of the corrugated metal roofing
length-wise into two pieces and adding handles. Place the two metal shields on
both sides of the beam/lintel “U” shaped channel and direct the flow of wet
concrete to the lintel. The concrete will find its way down to the holes of the
posts/columns. Vibrators are not necessary. It is best to pour a “wet” 3/8″ rock
2,000 psi concrete/slurry mix.
Plumb and Line wall braces are normally not necessary due to the designed
stability of the Lazarian ICF foam block and limiting the concrete pours to 4′
height at a time. Prior to concrete pours, have available extra 8’&10′ length – 2 X
4’s to serve as bracing for plumb and line in case of ICF form movement or
failure. Use concrete nails to secure wood bracing to the existing slab.
Immediately after the pour, check all walls for plumb and line. Then check every
half hour, hour and two hours and brace as necessary. As the concrete dries, the
walls tend to move and twist slightly.
The NEXT DAY, stack ICF foam blocks to full 8′ height. Install beams/lintels as
the top block at the 8′ plate line for all exterior and interior walls.
Follow the same procedure as the first 4′ high ICF foam block stacking method.
Install Qty (1) #3 rebar – 3’6″ lengths vertical to full 8′ plate line height in all wall
posts/columns at 16″ OC. Tie to existing 5′ vertical rebar from first pour (to 4′
high) and lap 12″ so there is rebar flush to the top (and not further) of the 8′
Install Qty (1) #3 rebar horizontal in beams/lintels continuous at 8′ plate line – all
Exterior and Interior walls. Use a hole saw to cut a channel in the foam beam/
lintel blocks in the size and shape of the adjacent beam/lintel the same as was
done at the 4′ high beam/lintel so as to have a continuous reinforced concrete
beam at the 8′ plate line. Install 90 degree right angle rebar and lap existing rebar
at all inside/outside corners and “T” intersections same as 4′ high beam/lintel to
tie/lock all the walls together.
Do not block the ICF foam block holes that will tie the reinforced concrete posts/
columns to the reinforced concrete beam/lintels as support for the rough
openings for the doors and windows. Connect the horizontal #3 rebar in the
beam/lintels to the vertical #3 rebar in the posts/columns with plastic zip ties to
complete the rough openings with 2′ long 90 degree/right angles of #3 rebar to
tie in the columns with the beams/lintels.
Block the rest of the vertical holes (that do not contain rebar) in the ICF foam
blocks at the 8′ plate line with foam Hole Plugs to create beams/lintels for these
window and door openings.
Install rough plumbing and electric to ceiling light fixtures, roof vents, etc. prior
to pouring concrete to the 8′ plate line.
Cut or break off the foam tabs (that are used to interlock/connect ICF foam
blocks to each other) at the TOP of the beam/lintel foam blocks, making the top
of the beam/lintel a flat surface at 8′ high. The roof truss system will now have a
level concrete beam/lintel area to install the 2″X8″ wood plate.
Pour concrete to full height of 8′. Fill the channel cavity of the beam/lintel flush
to the top of the ICF foam block at 8′.
Remember:Do not pour concrete above the flow line in the trough space into the
foam tab area. Level the concrete for a flat plate line.
Step 6: WINDOWS AND DOORS
The sides of the rough openings for the doors and windows, by design have a
minimum 1″ of foam as separation from the concrete posts/columns. This foam is
to remain untouched or trimmed as necessary to serve as a “trimmer” so that the
doors and windows will be a snug to the rough opening size.
Prior to window and door installation: Fill all bottoms of holes in the beam/lintel
ICF foam block directly ABOVE windows and doors with foam hole plugs. If these
plugs are not available, cut 1/4″ Masonite board to fit and install with caulking.
If the windows supplied have plastic/vinyl nailing tabs designed to nail windows
to the exterior of a conventionally framed building, then cut off the tabs. The
windows will then be able to slide into the center of the rough openings similar to
a “retrofit” type window. Use a utility knife to cut into the plastic tabs and then
use lineman’s pliers to break the tabs off with a clean break.
Install all doors and windows using various length “blue” concrete screws and
screw minimum 1″ into concrete posts/columns. The foam between the concrete
columns and the window or door unit is to remain and serve as a trimmer/
Use Qty (6) screws total per opening for doors and Qty (4) screws total for
windows and screw from the sides of the doors and windows into concrete
columns only. Screws into the top and bottom beam/lintels are not necessary.
Screw WINDOWS through the wall of the vinyl side frames of the track that do
not have glass. Screw DOORS through the wood of the side jambs. It is not
necessary to recess the screws.
After the windows and doors are screwed in place, caulk the perimeter of the unit
on both sides (interior and exterior) of the wall to make them waterproof and air
Step 7: Electrical
Install rough-in boxes for all switches, outlets, electric base board heating, water
heaters and ceiling lights and leave tails to tie in at finish. Install service gear.
Step 8: PLASTERING
Prior to plastering, mask both sides of all window and door openings with
Visqueen and plasterer’s Red Tape. Leave windows open and center of visqueen
cut for ventilation. Caulk and patch plaster all noticeable seam cracks, foam block
defects, etc. before spraying plaster.
REPEAT the caulking process between each coat of plaster.
Use drywall hoppers with largest orifice available with air compressor to “plaster”
exterior and interior of the home. With Ben Ron Spray Plastering machine, use
orifice size depending on sand grit size and strictly follow directions in
BenRon.com Operating Manual. The machine operates well without any orifice in
areas where the local sand has large grit.
If the drywall hopper seems to be clogged, shake hopper up and down and
continue to blow air. If this does not clear the problem, then stop plastering.
Then remove and clean nozzle of debris.
EXTERIOR of home is to receive three coats of plaster (minimum 1/2″) and
INTERIOR to receive two coats of plaster (minimum 3/8″.
Steps for Plastering Using Drywall Hoppers
1. Spray a mist of water on the foam wall surfaces before applying plaster
material. The foam surface should be damp, not wet.
2. Use the Imer Henchman 2 HSM gasoline Mortar Mixer (larger jobs) or a 5
gallon plastic bucket to mix the plaster material.
3. If drywall hoppers are used for plastering, take an extra bucket and notch
out an approximate 3″ W X 5″ D area for the drywall hopper to be placed
when filling with plaster.
4. Add approximately 3″ of water into the bottom of the mixer.
5. Pour a 50 lb. bag of Expo Pro Bond or Omega brand plaster into the Imer
6. ALTERNATE: Mix 3 parts sand with 1 part cement and add 2 % Vinnapas
Epoxy binder and 5% Lime. Vinnapas is a powdered polymer which allows
the plaster to bond with the polystyrene ICF foam block and is made by
Wacker Polymes in Germany. The California distributor is PT Hutchins
Company LTD (626) 333-3329 Att: Michael Duarte cell # (310) 567-2931.
The Lime keeps the sand and cement from separating, thereby clogging the
sprayer/hoses and creates a slicker material to pass through the orifice.
7. Mix until the plaster is thoroughly mixed with the water. Add water as
8. Scrape all interior surfaces of the mixer to eliminate clumping.
9. Mix thoroughly to a smooth “milkshake-like” texture.
10. The material should basically hang onto the paddle when removed and fall
into a 5 gallon bucket with about a 1″ slump.
11. Wait 5 to 10 minutes to allow the plaster material to “rest.”
12. Mix the material again.
13. Use a heavy duty 1/4″ open metal screen encased in a 2″ X 4″ wood frame
and pass all the plaster material through it into a bucket. This will
eliminate residual clumping and small pebbles that will block/clog the
14. Prior to placing plaster material into the drywall hopper, Spray WD-40 or
rub vegetable oil into spray hopper to “grease” and keep plaster material
from sticking to the sides.
15. Connect 2 to 3 drywall hoppers to the air supply and pour material into
hopper – about half full. Use both heavy duty Dewalt/Emglo gasoline
powered air compressors with 2-3 drywall hoppers connected to each air
16. Use spray head with large orifice and adjust air pressure as needed.
17. Hold hopper approximately 12″ from intended surface and spray on plaster
min 1/8″ thick.
18. Steadily move hopper back and forth to avoid heavy build up.
19. After material dries, spray min 1/8″ second lift of plaster.
20. Exterior plaster is three coats of heavy spray sand texture. Leave plaster
finish with natural texture as sprayed.
21. Interior plaster is two coats. After each coat, use 24″ wide steel trowel to
lightly knock down texture within 5-10 minutes of spraying.
22. Minimum total thickness is 3/8″ to1/2″.
23. When plastering is finished, use a putty knife or sanding block to clean up
rough edges on interior and exterior windowsills and wall corners.
24. It is imperative to clean the hoppers and spray nozzles thoroughly with
water after plastering.
25. Use the BenRon. R2 gasoline Spray Plaster machine on larger jobs. Strickly
follow the instructions in the BenRon.com Operating manual. Prior to
running plaster through the BenRon, mix a 5 gallon bucket of SlickTex and
run through the BenRon and hoses. This will allow the plaster material to
flow more easily.Use the BenRon only in locations where there is running
water. It is CRITICAL that the machine, nozzles, hose and shut off valves
are cleaned thoroughly after use. Do not allow the machine to sit for lunch
breaks or it will clog with plaster!
Step 9: REPAIRING ICF FOAM DAMAGE
Cut out a piece from a ICF foam block that will fit snug in the damaged area/hole.
Then take the foam patch and cover edges with plaster or epoxy and push gently
into damaged area until the patch is flush with the surrounding surface area.
(Sand foam patch as necessary) Then cover area with plaster.
Step 10: ROOF
TOP PLATE: Install a continuous 2″ X 8″ wood plate on the perimeter of the
house with 3 1/4″ Tapcon Hex Head Blue screws embedded a minimum of 1 1/2″
into reinforced concrete beam/lintel at the 8′ plate line per Detail 1 and Detail 2
TO INSTALL THE TOP PLATE:
Hold in the 2″ X 8″ plate to the interior of the home approximately 2 1/2″ from
the exterior sides of the home. Verify dimensions (1″ for T1-11 Plywood/Tyvek
and 1 1/2″ for Truss width). Layout for truss’s. Between each truss position, at the
FRONT AND REAR of the home, layout and install Qty (2) Tapcon Blue Screws
minimum 1 1/2″ into the concrete beam/lintel to connect the 2″ X 8″ plate to the
reinforced concrete beam/lintel. Then cut a (plus or minus) 1 3/4″ slot (adjust
width of slot depending on the width of the truss including the plywood gussets)
for the truss installation. (SEE architect details) Therefore layout for the
approximate 1 1/2″ wide trusses at 24″ OC and allow for plates/blocks at 22 1/4″
to create a (plus or minus) 1 3/4″ slot between each truss with two Tapcon Blue
Screw anchors per block between each truss. On the GABLE END SIDES of the
home, install the Tapcon Blue Screws at 24″ OC to connect the 2″X8″ plate to the
reinforced concrete beam/lintel.
Alternative to connecting 2″ X 8″ Plate to the reinforced concrete
lintel/beam: Instead of using Tapcon Blue screws to connect the 2″ X 8″ plate
to the concrete lintel/beam at the 8′ plate line, install 5/8″ X 8″ anchor bolts with
Simpson bp 5/8″ square washers into the 2″ X 8″ plate at 24″ OC (layout to avoid
the truss locations) and place the 2″ X 8″ wood plate level onto the wet concrete
beam/lintel – pressing the bolts into wet cement. Cut the notches in the 2″ X 8″
wood top plate for the trusses after the concrete has set up.
Note: The perimeter 2″ X 8″ plates are also used as backing for nailing the
ceiling drywall at all the exterior walls. Hold the 2″ X 8″ plate to the inside of the
wall per plans to allow for drywall nailing. At the interior walls, use 2″ concrete/
masonry nails driven into the concrete lintel/beam to install 1/2″ plywood
backing for drywall nailing.
TRUSS AND ROOF INSTALLATION:
• After truss’s are set in place into the slots of the 2″X8″ plate, nail blocks
between trusses with Qty (2) rows of 2″ X 4″s at the truss ridge line and at
corrugated roof lap lines. See architect plans for additional blocking
depending on snow loads.
• IMPORTANT: Install minimum Qty (4) 45 degree wood braces from the
top cord of the truss’s connecting to the 2″X8″ plate at the top of the 8′
walls. This will hold the truss system in place, create a stronger roof
diaphragm and keep the truss’s from rolling in a storm or earthquake.
• Install Teco Clips (one side of truss) connecting trusses to the 2″ X 8″ top
plate 24″OC plate/blocks per plans at perimeter of ALL exterior walls. Toe
nail the other side of the truss into the 2″ X 8″ top plate.
• Install (toe nail) 2X blocking (bird stop) BETWEEN the trusses at 8′ plate
line flush to the face of the ICF foam block at the front and back side of the
home per Detail 2 of plans and caulk all edges.
• Screw corrugated metal roofing to trusses with self tapping/sealing screws
(waterproof with rubber/plastic washers) at approximately 14″ OC on the
ridge cap and pitch/slope sides and one screw 12″ OC in the middle of the
corrugated sheet roofing wherever there is added wood blocking below.
Use 2″ special self-tapping/self sealing sheet metal corrugated roofing
screws. Begin installation at one side/edge of the home and lap (therefore
screw through two sheets of metal roofing that are lapped for water tight)
corrugated roofing sheets to center on trusses at 24″ OC.
• Install metal ridge cap for corrugated metal roofing with screws 14″ OC.
• Lap all corrugated metal roofing vertically at pitched areas a minimum of
24″ and ridge cap a minimum of 12″.
• Install corrugated metal roofing beginning from the lower 8′ plate line
(bottom) finishing at the ridge line (top).
• There is a 12″ eave/overhang on the front and rear of home. Install
corrugated metal roofing 13″ overhang or 1″ to the weather per the
• Install Z-bar flashing, tyvek and T1-11 Plywood to gable end truss’s
per Detail 1, per plans. Install backing by adding 2″ X 4″s as required for a
flat nailing surface for the T1-11 siding. (Note: It may be easier to install
the T1-11 siding prior to installing the corrugated metal roofing.)
• Install Qty 2 gable end vents
• Staple Tyvek to gable end trusses.
• Use nail gun with #8 common nails to install T1-11.
• Alternative to connecting truss’s to 2″ X 8″ top plate: Connect/
anchor the ends of the trusses to the 2″ X 8″ wood plate with Qty 2
Simpson S/H3 Hurricane Ties, one on each side on the ends of each truss.
This method of attachment may replace the A34 Teco clips and 2-16d nails
toe nailing the trusses to the wood plate as per plan details. On gable ends,
connect trusses to the 2″ X 8″ wood plate with A34 Teco clips per plans.
Step 11: INSULATION AND DRYWALL
Prior to insulation and drywall: Check for nails that missed the trusses/blocking.
These are “shiners” and will cause leaks. Leave nail in place and patch with
Henry’s roof sealant.
• Staple R19 Kraft faced bats to bottom of trusses in ceilings only.
• At exterior walls, 2″ X 8″ top plates are backing for drywall.
• At both sides of all Interior Walls, install 1/2″ plywood flat between the
trusses for drywall nailing.
• Run drywall perpendicular and screw 6″ OC to the wood trusses. There is
no need for additional backing – butt ends of drywall screw to the trusses
and drywall sides are not screwed except where there are trusses.
• Tape all drywall joints with self sticking fiberglass mesh tape.
• Hand trowel Qty (2) coats of drywall joint compound on all tape joints and
• Texture ceilings with Qty (1) coat of plaster texture using drywall hopper
and knock down with 24″ trowel.
Step 12: Exterior Painting
Step 13: CABINETS/TUB-SHOWER/CLOSET SHELVING/
Step 14: PAINTING/FINISH HARDWARE-ELECTRICPLUMBING/
• Any connections to walls, such as installing cabinets and shelving – use
blue screws and connect to concrete columns in ICF foam blocks
• Ariston 2.5 gallon water heater is installed under the kitchen sink.
• Ariston 4 gal water heater is installed above the toilet in the bath. Install in
a box made with T1-11 and 2″ X 4″ framework connected to the wall with
• Plumbing fixtures and appliances are from local suppliers.
• Baseboard wall heaters (electric or gas – see plans) are from local suppliers
• Counter tops may be Formica or tile.
• Balance of finish work, use conventional methods.
• Paint with heavy texture weenie rollers to completely cover the rough wall
and ceiling surfaces.
[box type=”shadow”] The Architectural Plans, Details, Construction Steps and
Materials and Equipment Lists for the The Lazarian World Homes – 2 bedroom/
1bath Home, SHOWN ON THIS WEB SITE are the basis for ALL other Lazarian
Buildings. RATHER THAN REPEAT construction procedures for each building,
please use the information provided for constructing the Lazarian World Home
as a reference when planning to build other types of Lazarian buildings.[/box]